Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Bucket mouse traps & why some don't work!!


Hello Readers,

I am getting a lot of comments from users of home made bucket mouse traps about their traps not catching mice.  I will make a few observations and suggestions to those making their own.

First off,  All most all of the videos I have watched and directions I have read have the roller mechanism too high.  It needs to be down in the bucket a ways so mice cannot jump off it and get back to the bucket rim.  Mice can walk the coat hanger wire so many would be victims live to warn their buddies and family members and teach them how to get a good meal.  Whatever you use for a roller, be sure to bait just the middle area.  Be sure to have the ramp perpendicular to the roller and the end within an inch or so past the bucket rim.  The mouse has to jump to the roller to have this principle work.  If the mouse won't jump or decides instead to walk the wire, this type of trap will not catch that mouse.

It is important to have the roller move easily and the holes should be very close to the center of whatever you are using for a roller so that the roller is balanced. I would suggest some sort of a stop on each side of the roller to keep it in the middle of the bucket; a couple of wire sized washers on each side of the roller (an 1/8" to 1/4" from the roller) and a little tape or glue on the outermost washer to keep it in place on the wire.  If the wire is not level, the roller will works its way to the low side and without a stop will get up against the bucket and quit being a roller.

Any trap with moving parts is going to spook some mice and you will not eliminate them all. You will probably catch the first one, and maybe the second one, but from then on many will be wary.  The tipping platform traps fail to catch a lot of mice because as the trap starts to move, a wary mouse will back up.

Now for the sales pitch:  The ISS (It's So Simple) mouse bucket trap is designed to catch them all and does catch them all.  There are no moving parts and nothing about it will scare the mice or make they wary.  By changing the bait and what you use for bait, they never become ineffective.  Once the mouse goes for the bait, it is caught and there are no escapees or close calls,  no reports back to friends and family.  I have caught up to six per night and know of people who have caught up to ten.  http://www.issmousetraps.com

Good luck in eliminating your mouse population. 

10 comments:

James Norman said...

Nice blog i neverever seeing that a mouse is in my home or my surround area.thanks sholly,keep it up .I also see another site or providing service to remove mouse. you can also find more information regarding mice removals.you can log on to this website: London mouse Catchers

Anonymous said...

Very helpful advice on the bucket trap. I followed some YouTube videos in making my trap. The traps have only caught one or two mice and the wheel is completely cleaned of peanut butter. I will lower wheel as recommended and see if this improves effectiveness. If not, will need add'l advice. Is it possible that a cat is eating all peanut butter on the wheel?

big kahuna said...

Very helpful advice on the bucket trap. I followed some YouTube videos in making my trap. The traps have only caught one or two mice and the wheel is completely cleaned of peanut butter. I will lower wheel as recommended and see if this improves effectiveness. If not, will need add'l advice. Is it possible that a cat is eating all peanut butter on the wheel?

Fred Sowerwine said...

Big Kahuna,

Yes, it is possible that a cat is cleaning off the peanut butter. It is also possible that your mice are walking the wire, but a mouse on the wire could not clean the entire roller; a big rat probably could.

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Anonymous said...

When ever mice are bountiful or when unsanitary issues are
present with refuge, mouse poison are definitely a powerftul instrument to use together with mouse traps.
Currently there are simply 3 types of mice poison; acute toxins, calcium dischargers
and anti-coagulatns. Many acute toxins are noo longer available bedause of the possibility of unintentional poisoning.
Vitamin d orr cholecalcifsrol iss a calcium discharger that causes too much calcium
to get released into the blood, resulting in kidney, liver,
or heart failure.The advantage of vitamin D are that it really kills anticoagulant-resistantmice
and there is little trouble of secondary poisoning.
Mice poisoned through anticoagulants die via bleeding internally.
Due to the fact that the effects show up days shortly after taking
the mouse poison, they do not associate their poisoning with the mouse poison.

Anonymous said...

The ccoffee can trap is another simplee homemade mouse trap you can make in the house.
You can make it either no kill or a kill trap by including water too the coffee can. Location a
piece of building and construction paper over an empty coffee can. Maintain the
paper in position by protecting a large elastic band arounmd
the rim. Cut an X form in the top, quiting concerning 1 inch from the sides of the could.
Location the could on the floor, and also put a large level stick (like a paint mixing
stick) from the floor to the top of the container.

Secure with tape if required. Sprinkle fod on the stick and also
on the top of the paper. The suggestion below is that little mousey smells out the food,
climbs the stick, wanders into the relatively flat surface, which after that paves the way, and also he falls in.